This is really a typical Cryptocoryne species of plant, the stems hold together giving a strong vertical effect, which is helpful for ‘landscaping’. It has the benefit of not minding just a little salt in the water, as it’s discovered naturally in brackish waters.
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Cryptocoryne Beckettii
This is really an extremely small plant. In reality, it’s the smallest of the family. The leaves, a delicate green and sword-like, tend to grow in a horizontal position, giving the plant an untidy look. They grow to about 6 inches.
Cryptocoryne (Water Trumpet)
Here we have an individualist in aquatic plants. The beautifully shaped leaves have a specific fascination of their own. The Cryptocorynes aren’t lovers of strong light, so if your aquarium is placed in a shady position, these are the plants to use, but it’s well to keep in mind that they do need some light stimulus, so don’t overdo the shading. Simply because the quantity of light needed for Cryptocoryne is less than most aquatics it’s obviously much better to use only plants of this nature in one tank, otherwise you’ve to compromise between supplying strong light for some plants, along with a weaker light for others, and end up satisfying neither.
Ceratopteris Thalictroides (Indian Fern)
Initially introduced as an aquarium plant in the 1930s, Ceratopteris thalictroides, or Indian fern, to give it its well-liked name, is really a plant which is used in tropical zones and flourishes greatest in a temperature of above 70° F.
The leaf formation is unmistakably fern-like, the submerged fronds being attached to stems which are rather brittle, and rise from a crown.
If planted in deep water, the stems might reach a length of a couple of feet. In shallow water the leaves will either float just below the surface, or extend themselves above the surface and bear a fine cluster of rather coarse foliage.
This is really a plant that grows readily in artificial light, which, in my opinion, is the very best method to grow it.
Young plants pressed into the sandy bottom of the aquarium, and given the correct quantity of heat and light, will soon grow into strong plants.
It’s just also to replace old plants occasionally with younger ones, as the old plants will turn brown with decay. Snails find them great to eat, so you’ve to replace the plants at fairly frequent intervals.
For propagation Ceratopteris thalictroides develops a ideal miniature of itself among the foliage. These miniatures then detach themselves and float to the surface. This, nevertheless, doesn’t usually occur until component of the leaf or frond has turned brown and withered away. The young plants can then be collected and planted where needed.
Ceratophyllum (Hornwort)
Ceratophyllum, or hornwort, could turn out to be an exhibit in nearly each tank, but regrettably it has two main drawbacks. The leaves are so brittle that they snap off at the slightest touch, and it has no actual roots.
The leaves resemble Myriophyllum in structure, except that they’re coarser. I don’t advise its use in an exhibition tank, but it’s helpful for breeding if it’s weighted down with little pieces of lead.
If left floating in an aquarium, thin, tendril-like shoots grow from the stem towards the sand in an attempt to root.
It could be propagated from cuttings.
Cabomba Caroliniana (Fanwort)
This is also recognized as watershield. The main attraction of Cabomba is its delightful appearance. The leaves are light green in colour and spread out in fan-like form from a central stem, and supply a great retreat for young fish. Cabomba isn’t especially great for spawning, as the leaves aren’t sufficiently dense.
When planting you need to remove the foliage for about 2 in. from the bottom end of the stem to make certain no leaves afe buried in the sand to turn out to be a possible source of decay.
Cabomba Caroliniana is one of the plants which could be bunched, but not too tightly. If they’re tied together with a thin strip of lead whenever you purchase them, the ends should be broken off, and there will then be a great chance for the stems to take root.
This plant is not particularly hardy or an excellent oxygenator and should be regarded mainly as a decoration.
Cabomba caroliniana rosaefolia is really a rosy red selection that may be utilized to contrast with the general greenness of most aquarium plants.
These could be propagated from cuttings.