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Guide of Tropical Aquarium Fish

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Temperature of an Aquarium

December 17, 2010 by rohit

To maintain tropical fish in the conditions to which they’re accustomed, it’s essential to maintain the temperature of the water at an average of 70° to 75°F. You will find numerous methods of doing this according to the facilities at the disposal of the tropical fish lovers.

Whatever technique of heating is utilized, its purpose would be to maintain a reasonably constant temperature range similar to the requirement of the fish.

It should be realized that the temperature of the water in an aquarium isn’t the exact same throughout; this is simply because heat rises. The lower regions of the tank will probably be cooler than just below the surface, fairly a couple of degrees cooler in reality. Fish in natural waters are also subjected to these conditions; as a result it’s not unnatural to them. To obtain average temperature readings, the thermometer bulb should be positioned midway between the surface and also the bottom.

The majority of thermometers are calibrated in degrees Fahrenheit, and all references in this website are to this scale, but should you wish to convert to degrees Centigrade the following formulae could be utilized:

(Deg. C x 9/5) + 32 =Deg. Fahrenheit
(Deg. F – 32) x 5/9 =Deg. Centigrade

There are three methods of heating an aquarium tank which are as follows:

  1. Electrical heating of aquarium
  2. Oil heating of aquarium
  3. Gas heating of aquarium

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Aquarium Leaks

December 17, 2010 by rohit

Leaks are a nuisance, but it’s not usually essential to empty the tank to do a repair. The tank should be given a chance to correct its own leak. It’ll frequently do this supplied the seepage isn’t too quick. A leak rights itself when the suspended matter in the water clogs the fault via which the water is leaking. This procedure might take up to a week. To stop a pool of water forming on the floor, attach a strip of newspaper to the underside of the tank just below the leak, this will absorb most of the water prior to it reaches the floor. When the paper becomes perfectly dry the leak is cured. If, nevertheless, it doesn’t stop within a week, the cement should be scraped out between the glass and also the frame to a depth of approximately 0.25 in., a hack saw blade broken in half offers a handy tool for this purpose. If bent back upon itself, the broken edge will have a slight curve which will act as a scoop. Remove the old cement about 1.5 in. to every side of the seepage. Next, thoroughly mix red lead with gold-size to a sticky paste. This should be forced down into the crevice with a hack saw blade, or any comparable flat tool. When the paste is set, touch it up with paint to match the existing colour.

A truly poor leak demands attention from the inside. The aquarium should be emptied and left to dry for a minimum of a week to make certain removal of all of the moisture in the cracks, then prop the tank at an angle of about 30° and run gold-size down the inside corners. Little fountain pen filler could be utilized to apply the gold-size. Don’t attempt to use the tank until a minimum of a week after this treatment. A more convenient technique would be to use a proprietary sealing compound, supplied generally in a tube with a nozzle to make the application simpler. Should you prefer this technique, make certain that you use a sealer specially made for aquarium use. General kind sealers might contain toxic chemicals which are harmful to the fish.

A cracked piece of glass can’t be successfully repaired, the entire pane should be carefully knocked out, old cement removed, along with a new piece of glass inserted.

A spare aquarium should usually be component of the aquarist’s equipment. I know it’s a fantastic temptation to use it on one pretext or another, but I advice you to keep it empty of fish to ensure that in the event of an accident it’s ready for immediate use.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Filling Water in Aquarium

December 17, 2010 by rohit

There is a correct and incorrect method to fill an aquarium.

Initially make certain that your tank is perfectly flat and doesn’t stand on two corners only. If it’s unevenly balanced, the bottom should be packed with little pieces of aluminium or any metal. Cardboard or wood should not be utilized as the thickness varies with temperature and dampness, and puts an uneven strain on the tank, which will eventually trigger a leak or crack the glass.

To fill your aquarium, place a sheet of newspaper on the sand, which has been placed on the bottom of the tank, and pour water gently on to it. The paper will rise with the water level, and stop a direct stream of water disturbing the sand. A saucer laid on the sand is another technique. Water-can with a sprinkler rose offers a great technique of filling gently. Don’t at any time use hot water as it softens the cement.

Aquarium must be over 2 ft in length should be filled gradually to permit the glass and frame to settle and for this reason I advise you to half fill your tank within the morning and finish the job within the evening. It’s nearly usually greatest to use old seasoned water. The water should be drawn from the tap and left for a couple of days to age. It can, needless to say, be left within the aquarium to season, providing no fish or plants are introduced.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Aquarium Disinfectants

December 17, 2010 by rohit

Once the aquarium is completed it must be thoroughly cleansed to make certain that no odd components of cement or foreign matter remain inside.

In an old tank that has previously been utilized for fish, but has not been utilized for a considerable time, a thorough wash inside with methylated spirits is generally sufficient to remove any dirt or organisms, but with a tank that has been newly made, additionally to the methylated wash, a strong solution of permanganate of potash should be swabbed into the corners and left for a week. The strength of the solution could be judged by colour. If the solution is nearly black, then it’s the correct strength.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Aquarium Cements

December 16, 2010 by rohit

Aquarium cements must have 3 qualities – water resistance, adhesiveness, and elasticity, the latter to permit for the slight movement of the glass and frame because of their various coefficients of expansion. Don’t use tough cement, simply because it’s nearly impossible to remove, and this will make repairs extremely challenging.

A great high quality cement ready for use instantly is now obtainable in tubes and tins. This will, of course, save a fair quantity of time and trouble in mixing your own.

The very best high quality linseed putty is most likely the easiest to use. It ought to be well worked with the hands until fairly soft, and then liberally pressed into the frame with the fingers, taking particular care to fill the corners.

A slightly much better cement could be made in the event you mix two parts red lead, two parts white lead, and one component putty thoroughly, utilizing a little quantity of gold-size to unite the entire mass. To mix the leads with the putty use a board to lay them on, and maintain kneading the mixture with a broad putty knife.

Another easy cement is made from equal parts of white lead ground in oil and whiting. The lead and whiting are mixed together with the boiled linseed oil until it reaches the consistency of dough. This mass ought to then be hung in a muslin bag, a lot within the exact same manner as when making cream cheese, and left overnight to set. The next day it ought to be kneaded once more prior to utilizing. This particular cement has the virtue of remaining soft and in great condition for a considerable time if kept in an airtight tin, and offers a handy standby in an emergency. The more it’s kneaded, the softer it becomes.

If it is essential to make fast drying cement, the following formula could be utilized:

Whiting – 16 parts
Litharge – 4 parts
Powdered red lead – 2 parts
Powdered resin – 2 parts

The ingredients ought to be mixed together with a great high quality varnish to the consistency of a stiff dough. If big areas are to be covered, don’t make a big quantity at one time, but make it in little batches as needed to stop the unused cement becoming too tough to work.

Cement containing plaster of Paris ought to be avoided as it tends to dry rather brittle.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Making an Aquarium Tank

December 16, 2010 by rohit

When you’ve decided upon the proportions, you’re ready to begin making your aquarium. It’s a helpful thing to keep in mind that you are able to use either brass or angle iron. Brass is the simpler material to work with; iron will need the use of welding plant. Nevertheless, if iron is preferred, a garage will generally do the welding fairly cheaply.

Cut two lengths of brass angle to correspond with the total perimeter, permitting about f in. for the bends at the corners. Now mark off the angle to correspond with the lengths of the two sides and two ends. It’s greatest to work from the centre of the angle when marking out, as this technique leaves some material at every end for the final sizing after the bending has been done. Use a hack saw to cut a ‘V’ 45° every side of the vertical line that marks the lengths, leaving a little quantity of material which you are able to file away with a flat file. Carry the groove to a depth that leaves a mark on the other side of the angle. This facilitates bending.

The angle is now ready for bending, and this ought to be executed carefully to stop the brass cracking within the weakened locations.

After bending, cut the two totally free ends to the correct lengths of side and end, mitre the corners at 45°, and also the frame ought to be a nicely formed rectangle. Repeat with the other length. These two frames will probably be the base and top of the aquarium.

Thoroughly clean the joints and all of the surfaces which will be in contact, treat with flux, and tin with solder.
The corners of the top and bottom frames can now be soldered together, but make certain that the edges naturally contact every other and that no force is required to hold them together.

Extra strength could be obtained if corner brackets are soldered to every corner. It’s worthwhile to make a jig for holding the frames square whilst the soldered joint is made, and you are able to do this either with a piece of wood cut to the inside dimensions of the frames, or with blocks screwed down to the top of the work-bench after ensuring the corners are square. Don’t attempt to press the frames into shape after soldering.

The four uprights can now be cut and filed to the required length. Once more make certain that the ends are clean and well tinned with solder. These can now be soldered into the four corners of the bottom frame, making certain that they’re perfectly square and upright. A little ‘C clamp could be utilized to hold them in position until firmly fixed.

The final operation would be to solder the top frame within the exact same manner. Once more, a wooden jig could be utilized. Unless an electric soldering iron is utilized the tip will cool prior to it has time to raise the brass to the required temperature to melt the solder. Then a blow lamp or methylated spirit blow torch will probably be essential. If you’re not especially expert at soldering, you are able to drill the uprights, and use little screws and nuts to hold the entire frame together until the soldering operation is finished. The screws are then removed and also the holes plugged with brass rivets, making certain that the heads are perfectly flat on the inside of the aquarium.

If angle iron is the material chosen, the joints could be made smoother and welding is a lot stronger than solder. The angle iron ought to be cut to equal the four lengths, the four ends, and also the four uprights, and every end mitered to an angle of 45°. When this is done all ends ought to fit snugly into every other ready for welding. After the welded joint has been made, the weld could be extremely carefully hammered to supply a smooth finish.

For aquariums over 30-in. lengthy, I advise an extra stiffener across the centre of the bottom and top frame to stop bowing of the lengthy sides. Even though the bowing might be slight, it’s nearly particular to trigger a leak eventually.

The frame is now ready to be painted within the colour you’ve chosen. It’s much better to use a coat of great oil paint instead of synthetic enamels or lacquers, as these tend to chip effortlessly and also the chips eventually discover their way into the aquarium.

With an iron frame, an undercoat of red lead prevents rust eventually forcing itself via the finished coat of paint.

The inside of the frame ought to be sparingly painted with gold-size to make certain cohesion between the cement and frame.

If paraffin or gas heating would be to be utilized to maintain the temperature, a slate bottom, or preferably a sheet of fully compressed stipple glazed asbestos (not to be confused with ordinary builders’ asbestos), will probably be essential. This can generally be supplied by a great builders’ merchant, but it’s advisable to take along with you a cardboard template of the actual size required. These materials could be sawn, but are extremely abrasive, so I advise you to use an old saw if you’re cutting it your self.

Once you’ve finished the frame, you’re ready to start work on the glass. Prior to putting the glass into the frame, run a smear of gold-size round the edges. This will assist to bond it to the cement. The kind of glass to be utilized doesn’t present any issues. The front panel of glass will obviously require to be clear, but the remainder could be horticultural or rough cast.

The base ought to have a clearance of 1/16 in. between the frame and also the glass or plate. Spread the cement liberally on the bottom edge of the frame to a thickness of approximately 1/4 in., making certain that the frame is well covered; lay the glass in and press gently downwards until the cement is about 1/8 in. in thickness. Clean any surplus cement with old knife.

Next, treat the two sides within the exact same manner, and then the two ends. Some aquarists advise wedging the two sides in position with sticks across the inside of the tank, but this technique distorts the glass, to ensure that when the sticks are removed it reverts to its natural shape and causes a leak.

The cement generally begins to harden after two or 3 days, and also the aquarium can then be filled with water. The pressure of water will give a final settling to the glass. Make certain that the aquarium is on a firm base which doesn’t rock, prior to filling. Once your aquarium is filled there’s no reason to empty it unless you’ve to repair a leak, or for some other emergency.

In the event you determine on a big tank, the bottom ought to be put in after the two sides, and also the ends last. This gives extra strength.

Filed Under: Uncategorized

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  • Tropical Fish
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  • AQUARIUM GUIDE
    • Shape of an Aquarium
    • Making an Aquarium Tank
    • Aquarium Cements
    • Aquarium Disinfectants
    • Filling Water in Aquarium
    • Aquarium Leaks
    • Temperature of an Aquarium
      • Electrical Heating
      • Oil Heating
      • Gas Heating
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    • Layout of Aquarium
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